29 Comments
User's avatar
Catherine Phipps's avatar

I haven't touched it for years. I do occasionally get the Alaskan sockeye when it is on offer as it is so expensive. But very rarely. What really bugs me is the number of artisan smokehouses using the Scottish salmon - they talk so much about their small batches and the aromatics they use - but really brush over where their salmon comes from. It reminds me of Country Ham in the US - so much effort goes into the process of curing, but no mention of the very dubious hog farm provenance of the hams.

I have in the past considered trout to be a viable alternative, but there have been a lot of issues there too in terms of welfare. Plus they are also fed on fish meal and oil. Chalk stream trout sounds lovely doesn't it? Makes me think of beautifully clear, free running water, with banks flanked with watercress. All very Wind in the Willows. I fear while this might be the case in rare instances, it is far from the norm.

Now we pretty much stick with fresh and smoked mackerel. Not quite the same and fiddlier because of the bones, but more reliable.

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

This is SO thought provoking C, I hadn't even thought about the provenance of cured fish and meats! Thanks so much for sharing. Been meaning to tell you i have a new pressure cooker in my 9 in one and am using it all the time.

Expand full comment
Catherine Phipps's avatar

Very glad to hear about the pressure cooking!

Expand full comment
Irina Georgescu's avatar

I used to have a subscription to a monthly delivery of chalk stream trout, but I decided to cancel after learning more about the farming practices. While I believe the people involved have good intentions, the realities of fish farming and running a successful business get in the way. I feel that it's challenging to find or choose quality fish, meat, and other products such as wheat and fruit. It seems that everything is compromised right from the source.

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Best to deal with producers and manufacturers who you can trust and believe in. Also, treat luxury food like the luxuries they are! Thanks for wading in Irina

Expand full comment
Irina Georgescu's avatar

Also, remember Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall's Fish Fight campaign from almost 10 years ago? Despite all the horrors he uncovered, all the publicity he got for the program, and all the Chefs who joined in to put other types of fish on the menus rather than salmon, trout, tuna, and cod, nothing has really changed.

Expand full comment
Angela Clutton's avatar

Well said, Catherine. Totally agree on all fronts.

Expand full comment
Richard Robinson's avatar

Thanks for raising an important diet issue in a well-balanced way. It is, of course, complicated, but improvements are possible.

Incidentally I guessed most of the typos but one had me flummoxed ('well it's spenny'?). Substack is rife with them so maybe it's a software bug?

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Most welcome, thanks for reading! And now you have a new word for expensive :-)

Expand full comment
Alicia's avatar

"spenny" is a colloquialism, not a typo! Means expensive.

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Thanks Alicia :-)

Expand full comment
Burhinus's avatar

I subscribe to Wildfish and totally disgusted by the way salmon is farmed. Not eaten it for several years now.

Great read and thanks for increasing the awareness.

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Good to hear and a pleasure. This is why I write this newsletter to spread awareness about issues pertaining to food, people and planet. Animals are very much part of our universe!

Expand full comment
Karen HB's avatar

Thanks for spending the time on this. Everyone needs to know this. It has been off my menu for a while, it no longer tastes good now I know how it is produced. I personally do not think there is a way forward for salmon. It just needs to be off the menu sadly as it was the most wonderful food

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

It's just so sad! I feel a bit robbed Karen, thanks so much for reading.

Expand full comment
Lucy's avatar

Really appreciate this nuanced piece! Glad Alex's comments were food for thought :)

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Thanks for reading Lucy, I was delighted to be pointed to your substack!

Expand full comment
Perzen Patel's avatar

You always bring something thought provoking to the table

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

That's the plan Perzen, thjank you for noticing and all the love

Expand full comment
mike mckibbin's avatar

Such an important topic as our seawaters and oceans need to be protected if we are going to have sustainable seafood well into the future. I will only buy Loch Duart Scottish Salmon - they use innovation in their welfare for cleaner fish - and have wrasse that keep the sea lice problem under control. For sashimi (which is all I do) the taste is unparalleled! www.lochduart.com

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Thanks for sharing this Mike. I must look them up. There are some farms doing excellent work but as Prue Leith notes the salmon still need to be fed with fish people can eat and this is creating all sorts of food security issues in less wealthy parts of the world.

Expand full comment
Alicia's avatar

I've stopped buying and eating salmon, with the occasional exception of wild. I miss smoked salmon! I am also concerned by the substitute of trout, after finding out that "chalk stream trout" is a brand name, but it's not farmed on anything like the scale of salmon.

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

Good to know! Maybe I should look into that next? Thanks so much!

Expand full comment
DS's avatar

I would also like to know more about the credentials of chalk stream trout, it definitely tastes great.

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

It does. Shall I look into that?

Expand full comment
DS's avatar

yes please!

Expand full comment
Simi Rezai's avatar

My friend Janet Clarke, antiquarian cookery book specialist, fisher woman and very knowledgeable about British food and ingredients warned us about fish and particularly salmon years ago. Since, I only buy wild salmon as a treat now and then. It's worth it not only for the reasons you mention but also the flavour is quite wonderful. (P.S. Lovely to see you last evening though very briefly).

Expand full comment
Mallika Basu's avatar

I'd love to speak to her, thanks Simi and so lovely to meet you last night (too brief!)

Expand full comment
teresa's avatar

Malika, thank you for this very well explained article. Looking at the comments, many knew already but I don't think it's generally understood. Until now, i thought smaller loch farms were ok. Salmon is now off the menu for me (it really should be the equivalent of battery chickens). Thank you again. Teresa

Expand full comment